Urban Homesteader Starts with Garden Beds and Chickens

Somewhere in the vast metropolis that stretches from Boston to Washington lives a friend of ours with a long-term dream.  To protect her privacy, I will not give her name or town. For over thirty years she has wanted to do some form of homesteading, where you raise most of your own food, plus some extra to sell for cash. She and her husband contemplate moving someday to a rural area in the South, where they could buy cheaper land in a warmer climate to raise goats or pigs or cattle, and grow more extensive crops.

However, that move just never happened (so far), what with the usual limitations on jobs and finances. She decided a few years ago, though, to not just keep putting food production off forever. She is doing what she can, with considerable help from her husband, on an urban/suburban lot of just over a quarter acre.  He constructed numerous raised beds in an area that was formerly just grass, and had many trees taken down to admit more sunlight. She sprouts seeds into plants indoors, to get a head start in the spring.  

It started about ten years ago, with just two raised beds. Now the garden area looks like this:

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Those are pictures I took near the beginning of May. By the end of May, the gardens had exploded:

Plantings there include potatoes, onions, squash, peas, peppers, garlic, tomatoes, strawberries, arugula, and lettuce. The brassicas such as cabbage, broccoli, kale, and cauliflower are covered with a tent; otherwise, cabbage moths can decimate these plants. In a rock bed they have horseradish and comfrey. They have four blueberry bushes. The next big project would be an asparagus bed.

For livestock, they put in chickens about four years ago. In the foreground is a self-contained coop with about 8 birds, and behind it is a second coop with a run behind it, which houses about 18 birds:

They are raising dual-purpose chickens, which are pretty good egg layers, and OK for meat. (There are some breeds that are champs at laying eggs, and others like Cornish Cross whose purpose in life is to grow to eating size in an astonishing 8 weeks). All told, they get some 7-10 dozen eggs a week, spring/summer/fall. This is enough for them to eat and have plenty to sell or give away. In winter, with the cold and shorter daylight, egg production drops to 1-2 dozen/week. To transform a walking, clucking bird with feathers into breasts and drumsticks is a task I will gloss over here, but that is something that homesteaders also must do.

The main ongoing work with their chickens is filling the 7-gallon waterers every couple of days, and throwing a scoop of feed onto the floor of each coop every day. These birds get a “salad” of greens at least once a week, for variety. Here is a shot of the “girls” eagerly pecking away at their dinner; I see at least one egg on the ground in the background:

Chicken poop is pretty nasty, but it is managed by a deep bed system. There are several inches of straw in the bottom of the coops and the run. The birds continually dig around in the straw and mix it. That seems to dilute and dry the poop enough that the “farmers” only need to change out the litter a couple times a year. It just goes on the compost pile, to become fertile planting soil.

Chickens seem to be the most popular animal for budding homesteaders. They are called the “gateway animal”, to get you started/hooked. They tend to require little management, and are versatile eaters, so you don’t need to feed them just purchased grain. Some homesteaders feed them select table scraps, and even raise worms to feed the birds. If you have a large yard or pasture, you can put chickens in a movable “tractor” coop during the day, to forage for insects and greens in the fresh grass under the tractor for that day’s position.

Regulations on selling slaughtered meat are onerous, but it is easy to sell fresh eggs. In their township, chickens are allowed, but no roosters. (No one wants to hear crowing at 3:00 AM). So, our friend’s chicks that hatch out as males end up going to “freezer camp” just before they fully mature. Livestock such as goats and pigs are legal. Our friend wanted to raise a couple of pigs (pigs can also put on weight at an impressive rate, mushrooming from a 50-pound piglet to a harvestable 400-pound hog in 6-7 months). Her husband, however, declined to support that odiferous project.

Growing food is one thing, preserving it for later eating is another. She wrote me:

I can everything. Fruit, jams, veggies, potatoes, meat, fish, and meals. I have chili in jars, along with lamb stew, and onions for Frech onion soup. I make spaghetti sauce too. Yes, I’ve canned our own homegrown chicken.

Since [the storage room] stays cool in the winters (60ish F) I can store hard skin squash and keep fresh potatoes for frying or baking til January or February. I also dehydrate herbs/veggies and meat and fruit. Some veggies don’t can well, they get mushy like zucchini.

“Canning” in this context does not mean sealing into metal cans like you see in stores. It usually means putting the food in special glass “Mason” jars, heating them in a hot water bath (or, better but more work, in a pressure cooker) to sterilize the contents, then sealing them with a lid. Seems like a lot of work, but I am told by friends from the old South that canning your vegetables was a normal household activity there well into the 1960s or so.

Finally, our friends have a beehive on loan from a neighbor. Zoom in to see the bees going in/out at the bottom:

I found it inspiring to see what this couple was able to accomplish in the way of food sufficiency in a quasi-urban setting, and I wish them well in their quest to relocate to where they can grow their own red meat and hear their rooster crow.

Why Chicken Is So Affordable: The Revolutionary Cornish Cross Broiler

Chickens were apparently domesticated from the red jungle fowl (Gallus gallus), a native of southeast Asia, thousands of years ago. Humans have been selectively breeding them ever since. Traditionally, chickens were valued mainly for their eggs. Surplus roosters would get eaten, of course, and tough overage laying hens would end up in the stewpot. But your typical chicken was a stringy, hardy bird whose job was to stay alive and to lay eggs.

Raising chickens en masse just for eating started in 1923 with Celia Steele of southern Delaware, somewhat by accident. She wanted to set up a small flock of egg-laying chickens to supplement her husband Wilmer’s Coast Guard salary. She placed an order for 50 chicks, but it was mistakenly heard as 500. When she got this huge shipment, she thought fast and decided to raise them to eating size (“broilers”) and then immediately sell them. She built a coop designed for grow-out, rather than for egg-laying. This enterprise was profitable, so she expanded operations. She doubled production the next year, and by 1926 she had 10,000 chickens. Her neighbors saw her success, and also went into the broiler biz. Thus was spawned the modern broiler industry. All this was aided by the general prosperity in the 1920s, together with technical progress in refrigeration and transportation. Her first broiler house is now on the U.S. Registry of Historic Places.

Source   Chicken Pioneer Celia Steele

However, chickens themselves were still scrawny by today’s standards. As of 1948, chicken meat was still an expensive luxury. With the broiler (meat chicken) market established, breeders naturally tried to develop strains that would grow big and fast. That not only allows more meat to be grown in a given flock, but fast growth means less feed is consumed to get to market weight.

For several years around 1950, A&P Supermarkets sponsored a “Chicken of Tomorrow” program, overseen by the USDA, to promote improved broiler breeding. As examples of chickendom as of 1948, here are plucked carcasses of contestants for the Chicken of Tomorrow contest of that year. Note how stringy they are, compared to the plump, meaty bird you buy at the grocery store today:

Judges evaluating 1948 Chicken of Tomorrow entries at the University of Delaware Agricultural Experiment Station. Photo courtesy the National Archives.

Without going into much detail, the ultimate product was a cross (hybrid) between the Cornish chicken and other breeds. Cornish cross chickens were initially bred for size and growth rate. By say the 1990s, that led to birds that were so heavy that they sometimes could not support their own weight. More recent breeding programs promote leg strength and other health factors, as well as sheer growth.

Example of modern Cornish cross broiler

To produce today’s optimized broiler is a complex process. Breeders must maintain something like four purebred strains, and then carefully cross-breed them, and then cross-breed some more, to get the final hybrid chick to send out for farmers to raise. Only these hybrids have the optimized characteristics; you can’t just take a bunch of these crossed chickens and breed a good flock from them:

Multiplication from pure lines to commercial crossbreeds in broiler breeding

Only a few large outfits can afford to do this, so most hatcheries are supplied by a handful of big breeders. However, there seems to be enough competition to keep the prices down for the consumer. Some folks will always find something to complain about (reduced genetic diversity or hardiness, etc.), but they are welcome to breed and grow less efficient chickens, if it pleases them.

In terms of dollars: “The inflation-adjusted cost of producing a pound of live chicken dropped from US$2.32 in 1934 to US$1.08 in 1960. In 2004, the per-pound cost had dropped to 45 cents, according to the USDA Poultry Yearbook (2006).”

According to the National Chicken Council, in 1925 it took a broiler chicken an average of 112 days to reach a market weight of 2.5 pounds. As of 2024, the market weight has soared to 6.5 pounds, and chickens reach that weight much faster, in 47 days (about the time it takes leafy green vegetables). The net result is that now it only takes about 1.7 pounds of feed to grow one pound of chicken, compared to 4.7 lb/lb in 1925. This nearly three-fold reduction in resource consumption translates into lower consumer costs, lower load on the environment and agricultural resources, and even lower CO2 generation. The largest jump feed conversion efficiency (from 4 to 2.5 lb/lb) occurred between 1945 and 1960, thanks to the development of the Cornish cross.